A Busy Year!

It has been an epic busy year and I feel very naughty at not posting, but if you love what I do I'm sure you are already following me on facebook...

But, just in case you weren't... over the winter I created some pieces for the amazing new Exhibition at the Royal Observatories Greenwich - "Longitude Punk'd" 
which will be open till January 2015.

I am excited out of all proportion that they used the celestial gear map that I created for the fabric on the front of the corset, as a pattern on teatowels, mugs and magnets and the like in the exhibition shop too!

Once that had opened, I went back to work on films, working in the making wardrobes and on set for assorted exciting feature films.

The world of films is not conducive to blogging as everything is super hush hush and you are working very long days with no time to write. But I have been having a lot of fun and hopefully will continue to!

I'm still going to loads of festivals and exhibitions to give talks and demo's on costume/jewellery sign books etc so do say hello if you see me!

Layered lace blouse

We started by draping a blouse toile on a mannequin, taking Edwardian pin tucks and high collars as a starting point. 

Because its a one off fitted costume piece the toile was actually in the real fabric, so once both sides matched no pattern was required, it just got sewn up as a base for all the lovely layered lace.

The laces are a wide variety of randomness, some very old stained pieces, some new little off cuts from other dresses, but all reused,recycled and hand stitched down. Some were even dyed with tea (hot water and teabag,no milk, obviously! Just dunk bright white natural fibres stuff in for a pretty off white vintage look...) 

The back is a big keyhole shape, I have a backless corset and thought it would be a good excuse to use it, with a cream latex rubber cowl neck. I blame the lovely Emma Brackenbury for re-introducing me to the awesome possibilities of latex cloth, I shall also be dipping lace into liquid latex, drying then attaching, to finish/blend all the textures together. 

No it's not a very practical blouse, it won't wash in a machine. But that's not really an issue for a showpiece.

It has one classic Edwardian bishop sleeve in muslin, made from a traditional edwardian pattern and because I can't resist the asymmetric, (and have option paralysis when it comes to sleeves,) the other is a broiderie anglaise Vivienne Westwood style twisted,pointed, tucked and pleated puff sleeve (ish) which I just made up as I went along. 

Latex and lace

I started with the corset/belt as there was some scrumptious Eau de Nil and gold striped taffeta hanging about the studio. I also wanted to show my placement student Laura, how adaptable the hip bucket corset pattern is.... 

So we just cut the pattern down from underbust to belt shape and sped onwards! 

This corset pattern is the Charles Bayer corset from my article for foundations revealed online magazine 

Afternoon tea on the moon

The annual dressmaking frenzy for "weekend at the asylum" has begun! As usual, my first attempt at a sketch, on the back of an envelope, is what will form the general shape of this outfit!

I'm aiming for slightly Edwardian, asymmetric, unusual juxtapositions and layers of fabrics, using scraps and off cuts to recycle and reform ordinary cotton calico into something amazing!

Do follow along as I post each new stage! You can also join me on Facebook at "Emilly ladybird" for more costume and Steampunk fun!

Opening of the Exhibition at Bradford industrial museum

Everything was finished and installed just in time for the opening! phew! There are some pictures from the opening on the exhibitions facebook page. If you get the chance do go and have a browse, it's a fascinating museum and the special steampunk display will be in place till May 2012.

You also get the chance to view a specially made 3D film using special steampunk style viewing goggles and starring Me!

Theres also some great pictures from the promo photoshoot here

The back of the outfit for Bradford so far...

This shows the length of the skirt at the back over the cage. The mini cage is 6 sprung steel lengths, individually sprayed gold with car lacquer, taped together into hoops and suspended from two layers of brown petersham ribbon, sewn together to make holes for the hoops to slide through (they slide through before taping..)

The top hoop does not complete a full circle and it's ends are held by the two front tapes. This is so you can get in and out easily, the top hoop is quite small!

Bradford costume-the jacket

The wool is such a lovely firm fabric it made these puff sleeves a dream to create, they are made with 3 big pleats top and bottom, with the top center pleat being an inverted box pleat, and placed on a smaller straight sleeve stay to hold the shape.