Layered lace blouse

We started by draping a blouse toile on a mannequin, taking Edwardian pin tucks and high collars as a starting point. 

Because its a one off fitted costume piece the toile was actually in the real fabric, so once both sides matched no pattern was required, it just got sewn up as a base for all the lovely layered lace.

The laces are a wide variety of randomness, some very old stained pieces, some new little off cuts from other dresses, but all reused,recycled and hand stitched down. Some were even dyed with tea (hot water and teabag,no milk, obviously! Just dunk bright white natural fibres stuff in for a pretty off white vintage look...) 

The back is a big keyhole shape, I have a backless corset and thought it would be a good excuse to use it, with a cream latex rubber cowl neck. I blame the lovely Emma Brackenbury for re-introducing me to the awesome possibilities of latex cloth, I shall also be dipping lace into liquid latex, drying then attaching, to finish/blend all the textures together. 

No it's not a very practical blouse, it won't wash in a machine. But that's not really an issue for a showpiece.

It has one classic Edwardian bishop sleeve in muslin, made from a traditional edwardian pattern and because I can't resist the asymmetric, (and have option paralysis when it comes to sleeves,) the other is a broiderie anglaise Vivienne Westwood style twisted,pointed, tucked and pleated puff sleeve (ish) which I just made up as I went along. 

Latex and lace

I started with the corset/belt as there was some scrumptious Eau de Nil and gold striped taffeta hanging about the studio. I also wanted to show my placement student Laura, how adaptable the hip bucket corset pattern is.... 

So we just cut the pattern down from underbust to belt shape and sped onwards! 

This corset pattern is the Charles Bayer corset from my article for foundations revealed online magazine 

Afternoon tea on the moon

The annual dressmaking frenzy for "weekend at the asylum" has begun! As usual, my first attempt at a sketch, on the back of an envelope, is what will form the general shape of this outfit!

I'm aiming for slightly Edwardian, asymmetric, unusual juxtapositions and layers of fabrics, using scraps and off cuts to recycle and reform ordinary cotton calico into something amazing!

Do follow along as I post each new stage! You can also join me on Facebook at "Emilly ladybird" for more costume and Steampunk fun!