Cute blouse for the exhibition!

This is the beginning of the little blouse for the exhibition costume. As it is going to be a permanent piece I shall sew it into place on the stand to give it a perfect fit, the skirt and jacket will be free to be removed...

The key!

This is the lovely key Herr Doktor has made for the back of the bustle dress, the idea is as the key turns the swag of the bustle will raise like a theatre curtain, revealing the drinks cabinet!

Gin bustle day three!

Today I finished the fit for the bodice, had an annoying moment when, while trying it on over my wasp waisted absinthe corset, I discovered the waist of the bodice was too big and the bust now too small, but it was easily fixed.... It looks a bit odd without sleeves and no trims, but you can see it's fitting properly now...

The hat has all been cut out now, and best of all Herr Doktor sent me pictures of the gorgeous key he's made, which will turn and light up as the drinks cabinet is revealed!

Gin Bustle Day2

Ooh it's getting exciting! the bustle cage is nearly done, and we've had the first fitting of the jacket top, which needed a little taking in (always better than letting out!) Lizzie fitted it over my waistnip corset and bra, but it may also fit over the absinthe corset... we shall have to see, it's amazing how much difference having the right corresponding corset makes to the fit.

It was obvious even at this stage that it's going to need a stay tape to keep the back waist pulled snugly in, it's important the jacket goes in, before it comes out over the bustle, otherwise all that tight lacing is rather pointless!

A friend commented that the front looked almost Victorian Jungle Priestess like, so I am thinking this is possibly the costume "She" from H Rider Haggards novel wears if she ever came to Victorian London, in a Dracula kind of way...

Gin bustle day one

This is just the rough fabric shapes pinned to the stand, getting an idea of shapes and colours, as it takes on the corset curves it'll get less arts and crafts tea gown like, but hopefully still maintain that noveau feel.

I'm loving the Edwardian style velvet underskirt Nicholette sewed up for me today especially, it really swings, though the velvet is a pig to sew, even with the walking foot....

Bustle cage continues on

Lizzie demonstrates the central floor section of the cabinet part of the bustle, the bone tapes have been inserted and a fabric "floor" and "ceiling" placed each side of the hollow for the structured cabinet.
The construction and shape is following a fairly traditional path otherwise...

Gin bustle begins

So, I have a pile of gorgeous fabrics from my stash box (rarely do I ever buy fabric for myself, it's usually leftovers or donations...) and A PLAN.

Sort of. The plan is to get assistants Nicolette and Lizzie so excited they make it all for me. Hmmmm not sure that's going to happen, except for the excited bit....

So today I have cut out the bustle cage shape, it's changed a little in concept from the original drawing, but will be easier to wear and more fun to look at I think.

I've also cut out the main underskirt, found some smashing blue embroidered silk velvet I forgot I had, might be a bit warm for September but it will have to do!

Absinthe fairie is finished at last!

So here it is, the finished frock! It's going to stay on the mannequin for a few days, and I'll still probably add a few finishing touches of bling and flowers and what not oh and change the back lace to a green ribbon - the blacks a bit harsh..

My lovely friend Denise covered me in glitter and took some pictures of me in the whole outfit.. (though not the huge frilly knickers cos i'm still sewing ribbon on those... and obviously not the wings because I get those next week when I see Herr Doktor at the asylum!)

Hopefully there will be some cool photos of the completed outfit being worn at the ball, so you'll be able to see the wings then.

Overall I'm really pleased, I did have a moment when I thought Oh No it's all got a bit pantomime fairy tinkerbell, but then I got over it.

Fairies SHOULD be pantomime tinkerbell, and it's best I get it out of my system before I hit 40 I feel.

The wings will add the steampunk element to the outfit and all the pieces work together great as seperates, so I can wear just the undies or leave off the crinoline and fluffy under gown to get different styles.

I still want to create some little green boots or spats with cut out leather pieces and loads of buckles, very victorian - but that will have to wait a while... A good winter project to make with assistance from my medieval Knight friend leslie, she's got some super green leather for us to play with.

So what do you think? I hope you've enjoyed following along with it's progress, any suggestions or comments gratefully recieved... and if you have any specific construction questions do ask! mmmm absinthe!

Absinthe corset day 4

Ok, it didn't really take 4 days to make this corset, I was doing a lot of other things as well...

You can now see the curvy shape properly. There's a 22" difference between waist and hip measurement and a 14" difference between bust and waist. I am very curvy to start with I hasten to add, my natural waist is still 16 inches smaller than my hips... So it's really only a 6" reduction...


The chest is not squeezed at all so there's no pressure on my ribs or breathing!

This pic was just taken quickly on my phone I'll upload some better ones soon... But you can see the flossing detail on the bone ends and the huge amount of lace - I hand dyed the green cotton net lace to match there's also some real Victorian lace and some Nottingham lace layered up in it too. I haven't quite finished hand sewing on the lace... One side still needs it's ribbon inserted layer...

Overall though I'm really excited about the shape and fit!
Next task- make the crinoline cage....

You can tell I've been busy!!!

I've been so busy since Christmas I've had no time to blog! How shocking. I shall now try to remedy that with one huge post, jam pack full of the exciting things I've been doing...

First up on the Jewellery front...I've now had 3 front covers for Making Jewellery Magazine ;) Two more since Christmas, including the current issue, March which showcases my Polymer Clay Tulip Tiles. These are really, really sweet, and bound to make you feel like spring is on the way...

I've also got a full on steampunk article in Aprils issue of Craft Stamper coming up, with details of how to make a working cogamascope, using the stunning new stamps from Ink and the Dog

Talking of spring I was hoping to get to Spring CHS international today and say Hi to Tim Holtz and other fab crafty people, but when I woke up there was snow everywhere - at least a foot deep! Hopefully it'll clear by tomorrow or tuesday and I can pop down then instead...

I'm also halfway through my new book "Steampunk Jewelry" (or Steampunk Jewellery for those
in England...) which I'm writing for North light books. It's going to be fantastic - I'm very excited...

I also went down to Oxford history of Science Museum to the Steampunk Exibition at last. We had a great day out in full costume with all the other "mannequins" who had volunteered to be Steampunk statues for the day.

It was lots of fun and the science museum is absolutely incredible...full of beautiful artefacts like orrories. The Steampunk exhibition was certainly perfectly suited to the museum, although it's overall portrayal of the Steampunk genre was a very narrow one, I felt.

I finished the gorgeous Tudor wedding gown I'd been working on over Christmas too... It looked absolutely stunning, and the bride was thrilled. It is entirely silk, with the most exquisite silk brocade front panel and petticoat opening. I hand embroidered the top edge with Elizabethan goldwork, including real pearls and garnets too.

It's very much "The Tudors" rather than historically acurate Tudor. The sleeves are completely separate, the strapless bodice is fully boned and comes over the hip, the skirt is held in correct sillhoutte by a farthingale and petticoat.

I've also been very busy on the teaching and workshop front - I've been creating replicas of my exquisite original late victorian corsets for "Foundations Revealed" including patterns and step by step instructions on how to re-create them yourself.

Although they are both from roughly the same date they are so different, the first (in gold) is just one fabric layer, with exquisite shaping and godets - it's a factory made Charles Bayer corset. The second is a gorgeous corded corset, very similar to Symingtons "pretty housemaid" I had lots of fun working out how they were originally made as you can see on the site...

I taught workshops all through January and February too, including one for some wonderful Swiss girls who came over to Nottingham to learn corsetry, I also had visitors from Ireland and Wales in the studio in January, and what a fun, well travelled group of students they were...

I will soon be announcing details of a super exclusive special Steampunk Jewellery Workshop - so watch this space ;0

Craft Stamper

Januarys issue of Craft Stamper is now in the shops with a lovely steampunk/altered art pocket watch project from Yours Truly. It's a little bit Mad Hatter, a little bit Rococo and all Steampunk!

Here's a little sneak preview of the main project - if you want to see more you'll just have to look in this most excellent magazine!

I have another awesome steampunk project in the magazine next year so watch out for that one too!

Making Jewellery Issue 8

My projects for this months Making Jewellery Magazine are a sweet origami star necklace made from christmas wrapping paper, and a special polymer clay Christmas bauble bracelet with a huge sparkly crystal and Vintaj wrapped clasp - you know how much I love my polymer clay!

The bauble project didn't photograph particularly well in the magazine - the original bracelet and my own photograph is much brighter in colour and sparkle!

I chose lovely bronze and gold steampunk colours with dark reds and purples and flashes of pale mint green - a colour combination I love!

Oh and if you missed my cover project last month with the art silver and polymer clay spacers, combined with purple and turquoise swarovski crystals, then Making Jewellery have thoughtfully provided it as this months on-line tutorial! check it out .

How to put a busk in a corset

This is something that confuses a lot of costume makers wanting to have a go at corsetry for the first time.

Whether you're a Goth, just getting into Steampunk or a hardcore historical re-enactor or just love live roleplay, a corset is a useful thing to own, and if you've made it yourself-even better! There are loads of good patterns out there, truly victorian, reconstructing history, past patterns, mantua maker and laughing moon all publish corsetry patterns from an assortment of eras... but don't forget to make a mock up version first - you can't ever expect a bought pattern to just fit perfectly!

Anyway, to accompany my articles for Your wardrobe Unlocked and Foundations Revealed on corset and bustle making, I thought it might be useful to go over the basics ;0 One of my articles is about re-creating the corset shown on the left, moddelled beautifully by Rhona. It's a factory made corset from 1898 (ish) created by a company called Charles Bayer Corsets ltd. It's a gorgeous pattern with a very pretty engraved busk.

step 1 lay out yourfront pattern pieces with the right sides upward, place the busk the right way round on top of these pieces, with the double hook at the bottom and the studs facing up. Separate the busk and put the side with studs and it's corresponding fabric panel to one side....Cut a facing the width of one side of your busk plus 2cm seam allowance, it should be as tall as your corset center front.

step2 place the busk on the pattern piece and mark in the seam allowance, either side of the loops.

step 3 pin the facing, right sides together along the center front edge and mark with pins the gaps for the busk loops. sew along this seam, stopping and starting at each gap, leaving an opening for the busk to poke through. Stitch backwards to secure the thread at the beginning and end of each little section...

step 4 iron the seam open

step5 iron seam closed, folding the seam allowance inside.
Insert the loop side of the busk through the holes, iron the raw facing edge in to neaten.

step 6 with a zipper foot sew very closely all the way round the busk to hold it in place.

step7 cut another facing for the stud side of the busk. place it right sides together with the front fabric piece and sew all the way down the seam.

step 8 iron the seam open and then closed as before.

step9 place the two piece together as they will be when completed and mark where the busk loops cross over.

step10 using a small awl make holes in the fabric by separating the fibres (don't cut holes or the fabric will tear) just gently tease apart - use a knitting needle
too if necessary.

step 11 insert the studs from behind one at a time. If you try to make all the holes in one go, the first will close up by the time you get to the last.

step 12 sew closely round the busk as before....