Original sketch for museum costume

The key!

This is the lovely key Herr Doktor has made for the back of the bustle dress, the idea is as the key turns the swag of the bustle will raise like a theatre curtain, revealing the drinks cabinet!

Gin bustle day three!

Today I finished the fit for the bodice, had an annoying moment when, while trying it on over my wasp waisted absinthe corset, I discovered the waist of the bodice was too big and the bust now too small, but it was easily fixed.... It looks a bit odd without sleeves and no trims, but you can see it's fitting properly now...

The hat has all been cut out now, and best of all Herr Doktor sent me pictures of the gorgeous key he's made, which will turn and light up as the drinks cabinet is revealed!

Steampunk Jewellery Workshop

Hurah, it's here at last, a one off extravaganza of fabulous neo-victorian steampunk jewelry making.

It's going to be a great weekend, 22nd/23rd May 2010 - starting with some polymer clay techniques (including how to make your own millfiori cog cane!) and then continuing onto working with filligree and vintage items, distressing and aging, cleaning and shining! resin, shrinkplastic, stamping, riveting, and so much more!!!

Each participant will recieve a fabulous steampunk starter pack created specially for us by The Altered Element, and is encouraged to bring additional vintage and broken jewellery and watch/clock pieces to re-create into gorgeous things.

Places are very, very limited so do be sure and book soon.
To book your place you need to contact Joan Gordon (editor of Making Jewellery magazine) on 07549 5225753 or by email jg.makingjewellery@googlemail.com
hope to see you there...

You can tell I've been busy!!!

I've been so busy since Christmas I've had no time to blog! How shocking. I shall now try to remedy that with one huge post, jam pack full of the exciting things I've been doing...

First up on the Jewellery front...I've now had 3 front covers for Making Jewellery Magazine ;) Two more since Christmas, including the current issue, March which showcases my Polymer Clay Tulip Tiles. These are really, really sweet, and bound to make you feel like spring is on the way...

I've also got a full on steampunk article in Aprils issue of Craft Stamper coming up, with details of how to make a working cogamascope, using the stunning new stamps from Ink and the Dog

Talking of spring I was hoping to get to Spring CHS international today and say Hi to Tim Holtz and other fab crafty people, but when I woke up there was snow everywhere - at least a foot deep! Hopefully it'll clear by tomorrow or tuesday and I can pop down then instead...

I'm also halfway through my new book "Steampunk Jewelry" (or Steampunk Jewellery for those
in England...) which I'm writing for North light books. It's going to be fantastic - I'm very excited...

I also went down to Oxford history of Science Museum to the Steampunk Exibition at last. We had a great day out in full costume with all the other "mannequins" who had volunteered to be Steampunk statues for the day.

It was lots of fun and the science museum is absolutely incredible...full of beautiful artefacts like orrories. The Steampunk exhibition was certainly perfectly suited to the museum, although it's overall portrayal of the Steampunk genre was a very narrow one, I felt.

I finished the gorgeous Tudor wedding gown I'd been working on over Christmas too... It looked absolutely stunning, and the bride was thrilled. It is entirely silk, with the most exquisite silk brocade front panel and petticoat opening. I hand embroidered the top edge with Elizabethan goldwork, including real pearls and garnets too.

It's very much "The Tudors" rather than historically acurate Tudor. The sleeves are completely separate, the strapless bodice is fully boned and comes over the hip, the skirt is held in correct sillhoutte by a farthingale and petticoat.

I've also been very busy on the teaching and workshop front - I've been creating replicas of my exquisite original late victorian corsets for "Foundations Revealed" including patterns and step by step instructions on how to re-create them yourself.

Although they are both from roughly the same date they are so different, the first (in gold) is just one fabric layer, with exquisite shaping and godets - it's a factory made Charles Bayer corset. The second is a gorgeous corded corset, very similar to Symingtons "pretty housemaid" I had lots of fun working out how they were originally made as you can see on the site...

I taught workshops all through January and February too, including one for some wonderful Swiss girls who came over to Nottingham to learn corsetry, I also had visitors from Ireland and Wales in the studio in January, and what a fun, well travelled group of students they were...

I will soon be announcing details of a super exclusive special Steampunk Jewellery Workshop - so watch this space ;0

How to put a busk in a corset

This is something that confuses a lot of costume makers wanting to have a go at corsetry for the first time.

Whether you're a Goth, just getting into Steampunk or a hardcore historical re-enactor or just love live roleplay, a corset is a useful thing to own, and if you've made it yourself-even better! There are loads of good patterns out there, truly victorian, reconstructing history, past patterns, mantua maker and laughing moon all publish corsetry patterns from an assortment of eras... but don't forget to make a mock up version first - you can't ever expect a bought pattern to just fit perfectly!

Anyway, to accompany my articles for Your wardrobe Unlocked and Foundations Revealed on corset and bustle making, I thought it might be useful to go over the basics ;0 One of my articles is about re-creating the corset shown on the left, moddelled beautifully by Rhona. It's a factory made corset from 1898 (ish) created by a company called Charles Bayer Corsets ltd. It's a gorgeous pattern with a very pretty engraved busk.

step 1 lay out yourfront pattern pieces with the right sides upward, place the busk the right way round on top of these pieces, with the double hook at the bottom and the studs facing up. Separate the busk and put the side with studs and it's corresponding fabric panel to one side....Cut a facing the width of one side of your busk plus 2cm seam allowance, it should be as tall as your corset center front.

step2 place the busk on the pattern piece and mark in the seam allowance, either side of the loops.

step 3 pin the facing, right sides together along the center front edge and mark with pins the gaps for the busk loops. sew along this seam, stopping and starting at each gap, leaving an opening for the busk to poke through. Stitch backwards to secure the thread at the beginning and end of each little section...

step 4 iron the seam open

step5 iron seam closed, folding the seam allowance inside.
Insert the loop side of the busk through the holes, iron the raw facing edge in to neaten.

step 6 with a zipper foot sew very closely all the way round the busk to hold it in place.

step7 cut another facing for the stud side of the busk. place it right sides together with the front fabric piece and sew all the way down the seam.

step 8 iron the seam open and then closed as before.

step9 place the two piece together as they will be when completed and mark where the busk loops cross over.

step10 using a small awl make holes in the fabric by separating the fibres (don't cut holes or the fabric will tear) just gently tease apart - use a knitting needle
too if necessary.

step 11 insert the studs from behind one at a time. If you try to make all the holes in one go, the first will close up by the time you get to the last.

step 12 sew closely round the busk as before....

Regency Ball Bath 2009

Yes, it was that time of year again when we decended upon Bath in all our Regency glory! The Regency Ball is held every year as the final event of the week long Jane Austen Festival in Bath

This year we managed to bring even more of our friends, taking up at least 3 tables at dinner....

Notable for dinner was the delicious syllabub
desert...

Overall very good quality food (although our hungry gentlemen had to go up for "seconds" their first allocated portions being rather, dainty....)

I have to say though, the vegetarian choice was rather lame - a slice of quiche (which was also given to the meat eaters as well as their portions of fish and casserole, which seemed rather unfair.
Veggies get hungry too, and paid as much!)

There was also delicious roasted vegetables and mashed potato with butter and mustard... But no wine was included,and the bar was shockingly expensive...

However, we had all enjoyed our morning dancing lesson, trying out some new moves ready for the ball, so when the dancing was announced we raced to make up our sets!

Nothing can quite describe or photograph the magic of dancing in full costume with 400 others in the Bath Assembly rooms to live period music. It is absolutely wonderful!

Our only regrets were that the hours raced by and before we felt we had truly started to get into our roles as regency bucks and elegant ladies, the evening was over! There were some lovely gowns and uniforms worn, but our party was very splendid indeed! all the hard work of bonnet and dress making definitely paid off! And there was much interest in my Regency costume and bonnet workshops...

The Fops and Dandys collapsed exhausted as the carriages rolled up to the door and we returned to our assorted hotels and hostelries...

Can't wait to do it all again next year ;)

Historic costume tour of Great Britain

Had a lovely day today at Greenwich Fan Museum. I gave a brief talk about my work to the American ladies on the Historic Costumes tour, organised by the lovely Jennie of Sense and Sensibility Regency Patterns. My friend Cathy Hay of "Your Wardrobe Unlocked" had also met up with them a few days previously, (do have a look at her Oak Leaf dress in the Natuional Trust "treasures" competition.....)

The ladies were all exquisitely dressed in their Regency finest to partake of tea and cake in The Orangery.
lots of scones and cake were enjoyed by all while oohing and ahing over the pictures of my "Big Frocks". I was also pleased to make the acquaintance of Suzi Clarke, an excellent costumer I have long admired.

The museum really is one of Londons best kept secrets. Although very small, it has a wonderful collection, it restores fans too and there is even a fan making workshop on some Saturdays! Well worth a visit if you are in the big city!

The ladies were all off to bath for the start of the Jane Austen festival - so I have no doubt we'll be meeting at the Regency Ball!

How many regency ladies does it take to make a bonnet?

A splendid weekend in the workshop with Kitty, Jane, Yvonne and Jenny. We made Regency bonnets and boned petticoats for super "Jema-style" cleavage... Bonnets were created to match Spencers and there were many requests to run a gown creation workshop.

A very good time was had by all and lots of excitement re what the well dressed lady will be wearing to the Bath Regency Ball in September.

Our dear friend Lady Depper even visited us for lunch on the Saturday, despite a slight accident with a chainsaw, fortunately nothing that will stop her dancing come September!

2nd European Polymerclay Play Days Weekend

Oh my goodness, I have just had the best weekend ever! Huge cheers for Helen Cox who organized it absolutely beautifully. Considering there were over 15 nationalities represented I can't believe how well everyone comunicated and how extremely well planned everything was.

There was a wonderful selection of workshops and 6 inspiring internationally acclaimed tutors, I made loads of incredibly cool stuff, learnt new techniques and met loads of like minded lovely polyclay enthusiasts! What more could you possibly ask for?

These are the things I made in the workshops. I learned so much, not least of which was how to condition Kato clay , to which I am now a complete convert.

I made lots of new friends, particulary Lone from Norway, Valerie and Craig from Scotland and Sue from just down the road! Valerie teaches poly clay oop north and had loads of really great advice, as well as a tool for everything (and many spare ones to share!) Lone and I were both totally blown away by Iris Mishlys workshop and had to be forcibly stopped from making flower canes and pillow beads for the rest of the weekend!


It was also wonderful to meet my polyclay heroine, Donna Kato, whose books and work have inspired be for many years, I had a great class with her and also managed to get an interview which will hopefully get a print in Making Jewellery soon.

On the last evening we had a party and all swapped beads we'd made specially, this is my haul! aren't they totally gorgeous? Every single one a work of art from a poly clay student, usually scattered all around europe!

Playing in the snow

Whilst this is not strictly sewing or craft related, I had to share this picture of my beloved sister enjoying her luxurious lifestyle in the Bahamas, sorry, Deepest Pembrokeshire..

She was coming to visit me this week and I had all sorts of plans to lock her in the workshop with a pile of fabric, and not let her out till, Rapunzel like, she had made it all into pretty things....

However snow has stopped play and it looks like she's having fun in that hot tub anyway!

I couldn't even get to Stafford to teach those lovely HND students corsetry this week either, so we'll have to wait till they get back from Paris, sigh...

Wedding Season

Just finished Katie Ffordes new book "Wedding Season" which was partly inspired by, wait for it, Me !

It is a wonderful romantic romp through the world of the wedding planners and designers/florists etc with lots of thwarted passions, mistaken romantic intentions and great descriptions of gorgeous wedding fripperies. Perfect summer garden or honeymoon holiday reading.

I am so proud to be named as an inspiriation in the credits, I was able to give Katie some insight into the design and making process of a couture wedding gown as well as running your own studio.

The details Katie absorbed whilst on the Kindred Spirits corset weekend shine through in the character of Elsa, the wedding gown designer!

Those who were also on the corset course will remember Katie was not as bad at sewing as she claims either, despite keeping us all entertained for the weekend with hysterical stories... hurah for 24 inch waists ;)

Her description of the regency party in the novel also reminded me that tickets for the regency ball in Bath in September are now sold out!!!

I shall be there of course, with my delightful friends for cake and champagne and perhaps a smidgeon of dancing....

Although not in this gorgeous silk gown which was created as last year for Kirsten, who got married in a castle!

Just put up the new dates on the website for victorian corsets, tiaras and fascinators. I'm already swamped with excited emails and phonecalls! I do intend to run some more- flat fronted corsets and pattern cutting too have been requested, but I need to find a weekend to fit them in! I'm just sooo busy!!!

Polymer Clay at Claires Beautiful Beadshop

What a busy week! I've just finished leading a polymer clay workshop in the newly opened Belper store, Claires Beautiful Beads which was lots of fun. Everyone made wonderful things, it's always great to see how different things look when individuals bring their own taste in color and style to a project... we did millfiori, photocopy transfers and a few faux precious stone effects too. Not bad for an evenings 'play' :)

I'm off tomorrow to Stafford College to teach millinery to the HND students. we're doing "fascinators" loads of feathers and net, perhaps some Dior roses and ribbon manipulation, we need to pull out all the stops for their end of year fashion show! It's a great opportunity for the students to ask all those questions about working as a designer in "the real world".

It's a very tough and competitive world in the creative arts, no matter what area you want to go into. You have to be really focused and extremely hard-working to be successful. More so now than ever...

Embroiderers Guild bag Lecture and Workshop

This weekend I had another lovely time up in Durham with the Embroiderers Guild.

The subject of my lecture this time was "The History of Handbags and the Rise of the Frivolous Flapper!". Much laughter ensued when I directed the willing model of my pocket hoops to reach inside and display what she found there.... several stuffed toys and bottles of wine appeared as well as a large box of chocolates, the perfect way of proving 'the usefulness' of these super articles of clothing :)

The workshop next day was "Frilled Rose Bags" and the group sewed for all they were worth, combining colors and textures, frilling and gathering like women possessed.

Lecture at N/E region day

It was a great honor to be asked to give a lecture for the North East Regional Day of the Embroiderers Guild.
I was very nervous, looking out at the sea of faces in the lecture hall, but the audience soon put me at ease as I talked them through "The History of Dress and Undress" with accompanying slides, some of which were rather saucy!

I had some examples of outfits on stands, which I unveiled in turn and undressed layer by layer. I took a sack back wide panniered gown and a Victorian bustle ensemble and Lyssa was most kind in lending me her gorgeous regency gown with painstaking embroidery all over the train.

Overall it went down very well, and everyone laughed at my jokes which is always good, considering how bad they are ;)

My life in Corsets

Just returned from Durham where I was welcomed with open arms by the Embroiderers Guild.

I gave a lecture on the saturday entitled "my life in corsets" with lots of great corset trying-ons, then on sunday I lead a polymer clay and jewellery workshop. Fabulous hospitality from The Hardys with plenty of yummy thai food...

My lovely red "mata hari" shoes from red or dead were much admired too!